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Patek Philippe October 2022 novelties – Still leading traditional modernisation

Hi everyone,

Patek Philippe has just released today a new array of its annual novelties, expending its casual trend (and touch!) to several models from its classical line-up. Of course, the star of the show is certainly the new Patek Philippe 5811G Nautilus which has the difficult task to replace the previous 5711 family. However, very attractive versions have been added to existing models, among which the green dial 5204G (QP, Split-second chronograph) or the 5935A World Time, Chronograph which is a steel version with Salmon dial of the 5930. The ladies have received a nice “Rainbow” gem-set Aquanaut with a Chronograph complication as well.

Among traditional brands, Patek has taken around 10 years to evolve and create its “3rd way” between more traditional watches and the sporty lines. The dials, straps and style they have been bringing, especially since the last 5 years, make them in phase with today, our needs, designs’ evolution, hence making the brand even more appealing than ever. It’s the expression of their genes and preserved timeless style.

I said in April the Watches & Wonders novelties were stunning but it seems they weren’t finished yet. Those releases keep exciting watch lovers on and on. Thus, let’s have a quick overview of the annoucement before we can get live pictures (because official pictures rarely equals the experience in the metal).

Have a nice read!

Nota Bene: all the pictures are from Patek Philippe’s official press release. Of course, you can also find more on Patek’s website.

New Patek Philippe 5811G Nautilus

The Nautilus 5811G has just been released, in white gold, with a blue dial that looks like the 40th anniversary’s (as the date font) as well as the 5740G’s (QP). Patek defines it as a sunburst blue with a black-gradient rim.

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The new Patek Philippe 5811G Nautilus

The 5811G is 41 x 8.2mm (10h-4 o’clock). This means that while it takes +1mm in width (which follows the increase of wrist sizes and covers an increased clients demand), it’s suprisingly 0.1mm thinner (the 5711 was 8.3mm). Hence, the brand deliberately chose to change its proportion slitghtly to make it look slimmer, hence more refined.

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A darker blue compared to the 5711/1A

White gold brings a very nice color to these metallic watches and pushes toward giving precious material their own place in a Patek world were steel has a strong value as well. For people who are used to seeing pictures of the 5711, the photo below shows quite clearly a thinner look concerning this 5811G.

On a side note, it is a 2-part case (like the 1976 original concept) and it is integrated with a “new pull-out lever system enabling the winding stem to be removed from the dial side, without requiring access through the back (patent pending). This design is designed to replace the previous “split-stem” system”. I guess it is convenient for watchmakers in charge of servicing the watch.

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The 5811’s proportions are different (slimmer) than the 5711’s

It’s powered of course by the recent 26-330 caliber (stop second, etc…).

Finally, the men’s Nautilus is also equipped with the new easy-set buckle (picture below), allowing to adjust the bracelet’s length by 0/+4 mm (+2mm on each side). I wrote an article you can find here about this quick-set feature and the new buckle’s locking mechanism (introduced in 2018 and 2019).

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The expanded quick-set deployant feature is introduced in the men’s collection too

Cufflinks have been updated with the material and colours of this new model.

The 5811G Nautilus on Patek’s wabsite

MSRP: 69 200 € VAT included (as of today, 2022)

Patek Philippe 5712/1R Nautilus in rose gold

The well-known 5712 is now available in rose gold with a brown dial, like was the 5711/1R in the past. The new 5712/1R-001 should look stunning in the metal.

The 5712/1R’s review is available here.

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The new Patek Philippe 5712/1R with its brown black-gradient rim dial

The dimensions remain 40 x 8.52mm (10-4 o’clock), with a 60m water-resistance. The 5712 remains faithful to the 240 caliber (as the 5740).

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As usual, Nautilus dials are amazing to look at

The 5712/1R also gets updated with the new lockable adjustment system (picture below, dedicated article here).

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The quick-set mechanism in extended position (+2mm)

The 5712/1R on Patek’s website

MSRP: 82 100 € VAT included (as of today, 2022)

Patek Philippe 59901/A Nautilus Travel Time, Chronograph with a dark blue dial

The steel 5990 Nautilus is now provided with a fantastic dark blue dial and its black-gradient rim.

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The Patek Philippe 5990/1A and new dial color

The case is 40.5 x 12.53mm (4-10 o’clock) and is 120m water-resistant. The deplloyant buckle has the adjustable system as well (dedicated article here).

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Maybe my favorite dial color among the Nautilus line, to be seen in the metal…

The 5990/1A embeds the 28-520 caliber.

The 5990/1A on Patek’s website

MSRP: 68 100 € VAT included (as of today, 2022)

Patek Philippe 5935A World Time, Chronograph

This new 5930-inspired model, called 5935, is in steel and measures 41 x 12.75mm. This is where the different reference number takes its origine from: the 5930 is 39.5 x 12.8mm. The result is that the 5935 will have more standard proportions while the 5930 looks a little more “old school” as thicker but with a limited width. I must say I like the 5930’s unusual dimensions and I’m glad the 5930 still exists besides the new 5935A in the catalogue.

The 5935A is offered with a Salmon “rose-gilt” opaline dial. Hence, the color should be the same as this year’s 5320G and 5172G. The hands and numerals are blackened.

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The Patek Philippe 5935A with Salmon dial and its 2 straps

As seen above, the watch is offered with 2 straps (as they started to do with the 5326G earlier this year):

  • Calfskin, grained, hand-stitched, taupe (originally fitted);
  • Calfskin, nubuck finish, hand-stitched, beige (additional strap

It’s interesting (and refreshing) to see the brand providing different colours and material for straps. It was high time. The strap is equipped with a steel deployant buckle, which is quite rare at Patek to say the least.

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The different dial guilloche pattern (from the 5390) is called “carbon”

The 5935A is 30m water-resistant with a 50-55 hours power reserve.

The 5935A on Patek’s website

MSRP: 63 400 € VAT included (as of today, 2022)

Patek Philippe 5204G Split-second chronograph, Perpetual Calendar with green dial

This 5204G is the first version in white gold (previous versions were in platinum and rose gold) and offers a green dial that seems to look fantastic. It would be the kind of light grey green that remains very subtle and appealing, like seen in the 5905A and 5205R lately.

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The green dial Patek Philippe 5204G

The case is 40 x 14.3mm and 30m water-resistant.

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Patek knows about combining traditonal and more casual styles

When talking about straps, this one looks perfectly paired with the dial. It seems that, aside of the material, the finish is also leaning toward matte or satin nowadays.

I particularly like how the white markings contrast with the dial (like the 5172G blue, the 5170P or the 5205G blue for instance).

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The olive green, black-gradient colour

From the back, we can admire the fantastic 29-535 caliber in its Split-second version.

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The mesmerizing 29-535 caliber

The 5204G on Patek’s website

MSRP: 313 200 € VAT included (as of today, 2022)

Patek 5373P Split-second chronograph, Perpetual Calendar with the crown on the left

This exceptional piece, part of the Grandes Complications, offers a very flat movement considering its complexity (7.3mm thick). The crown and monopusher used for the split-second function is placed on the other side on this model (like their similar unique 1927 piece). It will be a limited output (but not a limited edition).

It has a charcoal grey dial with black-gradient rim and ebony black snailed counters.

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The Patek Philippe 5373P with the crown on the left side

It’s sometimes difficult to be aware of what is different or “superior” in movement or craftmanship complexity. The cases are increasing in size and some owners are asking for bigger calibers. The problem is that watch making is about miniaturisation (especially since pocket watches) and both seem to be contradictory. Hence, we sometimes tend to forget or to have difficulties in recognizing what is exceptional in having a smaller complicated movement. The 5373P and its movement belong to this ultimate category for sure and its case is 38.3 x 12.93mm.

Please note that, because of the correctors placed at 6 o’clock, the little 6 o’clock diamond (inserted in Patek’s platinum cases) is placed at 12 o’clock on this reference. Well, it’s certainly a consequence I think of the movement being rotated from the 5372 reference. Still, it’s nice for people wearing their watches on the right wrist to have something that suits their habits.

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The extraordinary CHR 27-525 caliber

The 5373P on Patek’s website

MSRP: who knows…

Patek Philippe 7968/300R Aquanaut “Luce” Chronograph with “Rainbow” gem-setting

The Patek Philippe 7968/300R is the first chronograph in the “Luce” (ladies) Aquanaut line-up. Women are more and more interested in complicated watches and the offer is being expanded year after year. Hence, the model receives now the in-house 28-520 caliber.

It’s offered in rose gold with “Rainbow” gem-set bezel and markers made of sapphires and diamonds, paired with a mother-of-pearl dial. The case is 39.9 x 10.37mm and is 30m water-resistant.

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The Patek Philippe 7968/300R Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow”

The 7968/300R is provided with 3 straps (cf. picture above) and a rose gold diamond-set deployant buckle.

The 7968/300R Aquanaut on Patek’s website

MSRP: 211 200 € VAT included (as of today, 2022)

Patek Philippe 7118/1300R Nautilus with gem-setting

This new Nautilus version for ladies (35.2 x 8.62mm) is offered with different shapes and colors of spessartites (bezel, indexes). The colours are called “champagne” and “cognac”. Santé!

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The Patek Philippe 7118/1300R Nautilus with diamond settings

The watch is 60m water-resistant.

The 7118/1300R Nautilus on Patek’s website

MSRP: 82 100 € VAT included (as of today, 2022)

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